香云纱染整工艺中原料抗菌机制研究进展OA
Research progress on the antibacterial mechanisms of raw materials in the dyeing and finishing process of Xiangyunsha
香云纱(莨纱)是岭南地区传统生态染整面料的代表,其"薯莨染色-河涌塘泥媒处理"核心工艺赋予织物优异的抗霉变性能.从薯莨所含多酚类物质、河涌塘泥中的金属离子及有机质三大关键要素出发,系统分析其在染整工艺中的功能机制,探讨香云纱抗菌防霉特性形成的物质基础.研究结果可为阐释香云纱耐久防霉表现提供科学依据,并为该特性在现代纺织品中的功能化创新与应用提供理论参考.
With the increasing public awareness of health and the growing demand for eco-functional textiles,textile materials possessing antimicrobial and antifungal properties are becoming an important direction for industry development.Xiangyunsha(also known as gambiered Guangdong silk),a traditional silk fabric originating from the Lingnan region of China,exhibits excellent resistance to mildew due to its unique"dyeing with Dioscorea cirrhosa tuber extract and subsequent treatment with river pond mud"process,thus serving as valuable reference for the development of modern functional fabrics.This paper systematically reviews the research progress on three core substances used as raw materials in the dyeing and finishing of Xiangyunsha—namely tannins from Dioscorea cirrhosa,iron oxide-lignin complexes from river pond mud,and humic substances—aiming to reveal the material basis and synergistic mechanisms underlying its antimicrobial and antifungal properties,so as to provide theoretical support for the scientific interpretation and modern application of this traditional craft. As a natural polyphenol,tannins from Dioscorea cirrhosa not only exert broad-spectrum antimicrobial effects through multi-target mechanisms such as disrupting cell membranes and chelating essential metal ions,but also form a pre-coating rich in reactive phenolic hydroxyl groups on the surface of silk fibers,laying the foundation for the interfacial assembly of functional components.During the mud treatment process,iron ions in the river pond mud specifically coordinate with the ortho-phenolic hydroxyl groups of tannins to form a stable"tannin-iron"complex coating,achieving chemical anchoring of the antimicrobial function.This structure enhances the stability and washability of the coating.More importantly,the iron centers can catalyze the generation of hydroxyl radicals through Fenton-like reactions,upgrading the antimicrobial mechanism from static inhibition to dynamic catalytic oxidation,and significantly improving bactericidal efficiency and reducing the risk of microbial resistance.Meanwhile,lignin derivatives in the mud,as natural aromatic polymers,participate in the interfacial assembly of the coating by virtue of their rigid structures and abundant functional groups,enhancing the mechanical strength and hydrophobicity of the coating and forming a physical anti-adhesion barrier.Humic substances,with their complex aromatic skeletons and abundant carboxyl and phenolic hydroxyl groups,act as natural adhesives and redox buffers,penetrating and consolidating the entire coordination network,thereby improving the compactness,durability,and chemical stability of the coating. The durable and highly effective antimicrobial and antifungal properties of Xiangyunsha result from the synergistic action of tannins,iron oxide-lignin complexes,and humic substances.Through stepwise assembly on the fiber surface,these three components collectively construct a multi-layered dynamic defense system integrating physical barrier,chemical inhibition,catalytic elimination,and microenvironment regulation.This system combines multiple mechanisms,including multi-target biochemical inhibition,metal coordination anchoring,radical-mediated catalytic oxidation,interfacial hydrophobic modification,and redox balance regulation,demonstrating the highly synergistic functional integration of natural components in this traditional ecological dyeing and finishing technique.This paper provides a systematic theoretical framework for understanding the scientific connotation of Xiangyunsha as intangible cultural heritage and offers valuable insights for the development of green,efficient,and multifunctional textile finishing technologies based on natural multi-component synergistic strategies.
张妙雅;吕珊珊;周晓茜
浙江理工大学材料科学与工程学院,浙江 杭州 310018||浙江省农业科学院,浙江 杭州 310021浙江省农业科学院,浙江 杭州 310021广东唐贤香云纱文化传播有限公司,广东 佛山 528300
轻工纺织
香云纱抗菌防霉单宁铁腐殖质
Xiangyunshaantimicrobialtanninironhumic substances
《现代纺织技术》 2026 (9)
72-81,10
浙江省"三农九方"科技协作计划项目(2025SNJF054)
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