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表演理论视域下晚清童裤形制研究OA

A performance-theoretical study of the forms of late Qing children's pants

中文摘要英文摘要

在清代,随着儿童教育的制度化和育儿观念的细化,童裤在满足实用需求的同时,也成为礼仪与身份象征的载体.但受限于文献匮乏与口传心授的传承局限,学界对清代童裤的系统性研究尚属薄弱.文章以鲍曼表演理论为核心视角,结合多重证据法与比较研究法,系统探析清代童裤的形制特征及其文化语义.研究表明,晚清童裤是附着于儿童身体的视觉符号系统,其色彩、工艺与纹样在特定情境中,通过制作者、穿着者与观看者的三方互动构建起完整的表演体系:制作者将成长祝愿与教化意向编码于材质工艺之中,穿着者在日常及仪式场景中完成符号的传递与再演绎,观看者则通过感知回应参与脚本的阐释与再生产.童裤由此成为传递价值观念、维系社会秩序的重要视觉媒介.这种"以物叙事、以物观文"的研究路径,既拓展了清代服饰研究的维度,也为古代服饰史研究提供了新的方法论参照.

In the multicultural context of the Qing Dynasty,children's pants were not merely everyday garments designed to meet the practical needs of covering and warming children.They also served as a comprehensive medium embodying symbolic rituals,artistic craftsmanship,and cultural expression,highlighting their dual attributes of practical functionality and social etiquette.Furthermore,they became an important medium connecting family,society,and history,carrying rich cultural messages and social values within specific historical and spatial contexts. However,constrained by the scarcity of historical records,the oral tradition of craftsmanship transmission,and the marginalized status of traditional children's clothing in historical narratives,multiple factors have led to relatively weak systematic research on Qing Dynasty children's pants in academia.Existing studies primarily focus on categorizing clothing types,analyzing techniques,or compiling historical texts,while paying limited attention to their underlying social performance mechanisms and cultural narrative functions,failing to establish a systematic theoretical framework.This paper adopts Richard Bauman's performance theory as the core analytical framework,combining multiple evidence methods and comparative research approaches to thoroughly explore the structural characteristics and cultural narrative logic of Qing Dynasty children's pants. Research indicates that children's pants in late Qing Dynasty can be regarded as a visual performance symbol attached to the body.Their colors,material craftsmanship,and pattern designs,through a triadic interaction mechanism involving makers,wearers,and viewers,construct a complete and layered cultural expression system in specific contexts such as daily life and ritual performances.First,the makers were often elderly women within the family.During the production of children's pants,they employed metaphorical and symbolic techniques,embedding meanings such as auspicious blessings,ethical teachings,and ethnic identity into patterns and colors,reflecting the interweaving of maternal love,family traditions,and faith.Second,children,as wearers,externalize these clothing symbols silently through bodily performances in daily life and ritual occasions,transforming the attire into a mobile medium of cultural meaning.Finally,viewers,as members of the community and society,participate by observing,imitating,and responding ritually,not only perceiving and interpreting these symbols but also reproducing and disseminating cultural meanings through interaction.These visual elements are continuously imbued with significance during wearing and viewing,making children's pants a convergence point of familial emotions,folk beliefs,and social ethics,as well as a vital carrier of community cultural heritage.This triadic interaction mediated by performance transforms children's pants from material attire into dynamic cultural expression,forming a unique research paradigm of"narrating through objects and interpreting culture through objects."Introducing this theory into clothing studies helps reveal that children's pants are not merely static material carriers but cultural texts constantly activated and reproduced in specific usage and performance scenarios.

李华文;刘斌;刘达

浙江理工大学 服装学院,杭州 311199北京服装学院 材料设计与工程学院,北京 100029北京服装学院 材料设计与工程学院,北京 100029

轻工纺织

晚清童裤表演理论形制结构色彩纹样民俗意涵

children's pants in the late Qing Dynastyperformance theoryform and structurecolor patternsfolk customs implications

《丝绸》 2026 (9)

95-104,10

北京市高等教育学会面上课题项目(MS2025256)浙江理工大学科研启动项目(25072387-Y)中国纺织工业联合会高等教育教学改革研究项目(2026BKJGLX048)

10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.09.010

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