波浪作用下珊瑚礁海岸沙滩平衡剖面形态试验研究OA

Coral reef beaches,composed of carbonate-rich coral sand and debris,tend to develop equilibrium profiles under the protection of reef bodies.However,the applicability of conventional equilibrium profile theo-ries for sandy coasts remains uncertain in such geomorphic settings.The physical model experiments were con-ducted to study the profile evolution of coral reef beaches under wave action.The results show that profile ad-justment is primarily achieved through net onshore sediment transport,leading to the development of concave equilibrium profiles characterized by a distinct trough and berm.With the increaseof wave energy,beach slopes increase to enhance the sediment gravitational effects,and thereby balancing wave-induced onshore transport.Based on the experimental results,a power-law predictive formula for equilibrium profiles was estab-lished using a dimensionless relative water depth parameter.This formula demonstrates good predictive skill under most laboratory conditions and for certain field observations,partly addressing the limitations of tradi-tional theories when applied to carbonate reef coasts.However,for beach profiles exhibiting local convexities or flat segments,the formula performance and applicability remain constrained,highlighting the need for fur-ther refinement and extension.