纹以载道:清代戏曲服饰"靠"甲纹的符号学研究OA
Patterns bearing Dao:A semiotic study of the armor patterns on the"Kao"in Qing Dynasty opera costumes
清代戏曲服饰"靠"的甲纹是中国传统甲胄在舞台艺术中的符号化呈现,承载着忠勇仁义等精神意涵与严整的视觉秩序.本文选取《传统戏衣》中的10件清代"靠"的甲纹为研究对象,以莫里斯符号学三分法为理论框架,从语义、语构、语用三个层面系统解读甲纹的象征意义、形式构成与功能演化.研究表明,甲纹刺绣本质上是古代铠甲从实体防护到视觉表征的符号性转译,其形态单元、构成法则与工艺语言共同构成可迁移的视觉资源.在此基础上,本文提出从纹样提炼、结构借鉴、工艺延续三个维度推进"靠"甲纹的现代转化,为戏曲服饰纹样的创新设计提供理论依据.
The armor patterns on the Qing Dynasty opera costume"kao"are symbolic representations of traditional Chinese armor in stage art,carrying spiritual connotations such as loyalty,bravery,and righteousness,as well as a strict visual order.This paper selects 10 armor patterns of the Qing Dynasty"kao"from"Traditional Opera Costumes"as the research objects,and uses Morris's semiotic trichotomy as the theoretical framework to systematically interpret the symbolic meaning,form composition,and functional evolution of the armor patterns from the three levels of semantics,syntax,and pragmatics.The research shows that the embroidery of the armor patterns is essentially a symbolic translation of ancient armor from physical protection to visual representation.Its morphological units,composition rules,and craftsmanship language together constitute transferable visual resources.On this basis,this paper proposes to promote the modern transformation of the"Kao"armor patterns from three dimensions:pattern extraction,structural reference,and craftsmanship continuation,providing a theoretical basis for the innovative design of opera costume patterns.
张春夏;何钦;曹娇杨;李若萱
天津科技大学,天津 300222天津科技大学,天津 300222天津科技大学,天津 300222天津科技大学,天津 300222
轻工纺织
清代戏曲服饰"靠"甲纹莫里斯符号学
"Kao"in Qing Dynasty opera costumespatterns of armorMorris semiotics
《染整技术》 2026 (5)
58-61,4
2026年度天津市艺术科学规划项目"津派剧装戏具制作技艺及其发展路径研究"(A26004)
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