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湘西红苗女性头饰形制功能与成因研究OA

A study on the functional evolution and formation causes of the headdress styles of Red Miao women in Xiangxi

中文摘要英文摘要

头饰作为湘西红苗女性服饰的重要组成部分,亦是族群文化传播的重要媒介.文章以湘西红苗女性头饰作为研究对象,通过文献分析、实物考察与图像对比,对形制、纹样及功能进行系统研究,并探讨头饰形制的流变成因.研究表明,湘西红苗女性头饰形制呈现从单一"匕形发簪"到繁复"插头银花"再到夸张"银花太平帽"的流变趋势,其功能亦由最初的椎髻实用逐渐转向信仰装饰与文化寓意表达,并通过头饰的形制与佩戴方式区分族群支系与社会规训.官方政策的持续介入、苗汉纹饰的文化交融是促使湘西红苗女性头饰形制流变及功能演进的重要因素.

As an essential carrier of traditional Chinese costume culture,the headdress of Red Miao women in Xiangxi(western Hunan)embodies ethnic historical memory and cultural identity through its stylistic evolution and functional transformation.Current academic research on Miao ethnic attire primarily focuses on static morphological analysis,lacking systematic exploration of dynamic development mechanisms.This study aims to reveal the stylistic evolution trajectory of Red Miao women's headdresses from the late Ming Dynasty to contemporary times through diachronic investigation and interdisciplinary analysis,while elucidating the internal logic and external driving forces behind functional transitions.By addressing theoretical gaps in traditional costume culture research regarding dynamic development mechanisms,this work provides academic support for the living inheritance of intangible cultural heritage. The research systematically examines the formal structures,decorative patterns,and functional characteristics of Red Miao women's headdresses in Xiangxi through literature review,fieldwork with physical artifacts,and image comparison.The evolutionary causes of headdress styles are further explored through multidisciplinary analysis.Research demonstrates that Red Miao women's headdresses exhibit an evolutionary trend from practicality to ornamentation,and from simplicity to complexity.Their styles evolved from"dagger-shaped hairpins"to"inserted silver floral decorations,"ultimately forming the"silver-flower peace cap"system.Functionally,these headdresses transitioned from serving as hair-bun fixers to becoming faith-based ornaments and identity markers.Through pattern encoding,they established a visual symbol system for ethnic subgroup identification and social regulation.This transformation was driven by dual factors:first,the Qing Dynasty's"haircutting and earring removal"policy and the Republic of China's assimilation policies compelled traditional silver craftsmanship to shift toward more decorative silver hat systems;second,Han-Miao cultural integration spurred innovation in decorative patterns.The fusion of Han Chinese auspicious motifs"Fu(blessing),Lu(prosperity),Shou(longevity)and Xi(joy)"with Miao totem symbols created a"multi-unity"visual language.This adaptive strategy of a marginalized ethnic group during cultural encounters reflects not only the technical evolution path of traditional silver craftsmanship but also reveals the inheritance and innovation mechanisms of ethnic costume culture during modernization,providing a cultural gene database for contemporary design applications. Through systematic fieldwork,literature organization,and artifact collection,this study constructs a research framework covering the Ming and Qing dynasties to contemporary times regarding Red Miao women's headdresses in Xiangxi.The primary innovations include:analyzing the evolution process from policy regulation,cultural integration,and technical perspectives to reveal the developmental patterns of traditional silver craftsmanship under historical changes;exploring how Miao silver ornaments transmit ethnic cultural information through pattern analysis,offering new insights into semiotic studies of ethnic costume decorations.

刘欢;王柯

苏州大学 艺术学院,江苏 苏州 215123苏州大学 艺术学院,江苏 苏州 215123

轻工纺织

湘西红苗头饰形制流变功能演进身份秩序成因

Red Miao in Xiangxiheaddressformal evolutionfunctional evolutionidentity orderformation cause

《丝绸》 2026 (3)

125-132,8

国家社会科学基金冷门"绝学"和国别史等研究专项项目(19VJX170)教育部人文社会科学项目(21YJC760111)海南大学人文社会科学国家级科研培育项目(25GJJPY-29)

10.3969/j.issn.1001-7003.2026.03.014

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