宋代腰束"勒帛"再考OA

Lebo,a type of fabric belt worn around the waist that became popular and widespread during the Song Dynasty(960-1279),was one of the most representative forms of belts in the Song Dynasty's clothing system.This term is frequently found in official histories,ritual documents,miscellaneous notes,paintings,and archaeological textile artifacts,indicating its significant role in both daily wear and formal ceremonies.Despite this,there have long been differences in academic understanding regarding the definition,shape,wearing position,and functional attributes of Lebo.Due to its relatively simple design,flexible usage,and certain similarities in appearance and function with other contemporary garments that served to bind or constrict,such as Tengshe and back-tied wide sleeves,Lebo has often been confused with these items,which has affected the accurate understanding of waist belts and their wearing logic in the Song Dynasty.Clarifying the form and function of Lebo is thus a crucial prerequisite for understanding the clothing culture of the Song Dynasty. The information from historical records,painting images,and archaeological textile artifacts mutually corroborate each other,allowing for a relatively clear presentation of the wearing position and actual usage of Lebo.The relevant materials consistently show that Lebo was worn around the waist,not the chest or shoulders,and its structural features were different from those of garments used to bind the upper body or sleeves.As a fabric belt,Lebo could be used as an inner belt or replace leather belts as an outer belt.Its basic wearing method was to wrap around the waist once and tie a knot in the front,with the ends either hanging down or not.While maintaining a relatively stable basic form,Lebo had a certain degree of flexibility in its usage,adapting to various clothing combinations such as robes,shirts,and Beizi.This coexistence of stability and adaptability made Lebo widely popular in the Song Dynasty and led to differences in materials,colors,and decoration levels among different social classes.Compared with Tengshe and back-tied wide sleeves,Lebo had fundamental differences in wearing position,structural logic,and functional attributes:Tengshe was mainly used to bind the chest area and was more common among military personnel;back-tied wide sleeves were used to gather the wide cuffs behind the back for ease of movement and were often seen on entertainers and warriors. The systematic clarification of these differences helps correct the previous understanding that Lebo could be used to bind the collar or sleeves.It also provides a more accurate definition of waist belts in the Song Dynasty.The redefinition of the concept and form of Lebo not only deepens the understanding of the structure of Song Dynasty clothing but also provides reliable reference for further exploring the development and historical continuity of waist belt forms in the Yuan and Ming Dynasties.At the same time,it highlights the significant value of comprehensively using historical records,images,and archaeological artifacts in the study of clothing history.