场域理论视角下的20世纪20年代欧美女性运动服装功能性转型研究OA

The foundation of sportswear was laid in the 19th century.In Europe and America,women's sportswear was initially designed for those who actively participated in sports as well as well-dressed spectators.Its popularization and mass production as a fashionable garment truly began in the 1920s.During this period,the demand for functional sportswear surged across Western Europe and the United States.This study takes Western women's sportswear in the 1920s as its focus,and applies Pierre Bourdieu's theoretical framework of field-capital-habitus to investigate the dynamics behind its functional transformation. Young women in developed Western countries in the 1920s gradually embraced a more independent and self-reliant lifestyle.This emerging habitus led them to prefer attire that was freer,more comfortable,stylish,and hygienic—marking a distinct shift from previous generations.Based on visual analysis and historical research,the functional transformation of women's sportswear in developed Western countries in this period can be identified in several key aspects. First,garments became significantly lighter.Inner layers were simplified,and multi-layered petticoats and corsets were increasingly abandoned.Hemlines rose to the knee,and the adoption of knitted fabrics introduced a new level of softness and elasticity.Second,functionality was often concealed within the garments.Design innovations such as trousers worn under skirts or culottes offered freedom of movement while maintaining social decorum and minimizing leg exposure.Third,adaptability became a central design principle.Many garments featured multifunctional,convertible,and detachable elements—achieved through specialized fastenings or modular components—allowing women to adapt their attire across diverse settings and activities.Fourth,sportswear emphasized separability.The popularity of two-piece outfits marked the beginning of sports separates in American fashion.Knit cardigans,pullovers,pleated skirts,bloomers,pleated skirts,ski pants,and swimsuits were widely embraced,affording women greater flexibility in dressing.Fifth,there was a clear trend toward androgyny.Some designs deliberately blurred gender distinctions by incorporating elements of men's sportswear,such as tailoring or fabrics.Women also modified or wore male relatives'sports garments,challenging social taboos like exposing the legs. From the perspective of Bourdieu's field theory,the functional transformation of women's sportswear in the 1920s was the product of structured interactions within intersecting fields such as sport,fashion,and media.The popularity of athletic pursuits,the development of knitting and elastic textile technologies,and the influence of the women's movement all played a pivotal role.During this era,sportswear became a symbolic expression of gender equality and social progress.This study not only enhances our understanding of the origins of women's sportswear but also provides theoretical insight into the evolution of its design.